#Suzy米兰时装周：Prada – 性感魅惑的女性主义

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#Suzy米兰时装周：Prada – 性感魅惑的女性主义

The set at the Prada Autumn/Winter 2017 show.

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“This apparently stupid seduction - is it bad or not?” mused Miuccia Prada backstage, as her monumental show of female seductive tools was being packed away - the knitted bra tops that opened the show along with the marabou feathers that fluttered throughout and the poster girl pictures printed on dresses - just as they were hung on the walls of the huge show space.

The set was divided into a series of dormitories, where the audience could take their seats on beds coated with cheap, vividly coloured and (dare-we-say-vulgar?) blankets.

"I was thinking about La Citta della Donne - Fellini's City of Women - not the film, but the title," said the designer, wearing mannish corduroy trousers that had appeared in the show.

Prada Autumn/Winter 2017

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Miuccia was referring to Federico Fellini's 1980 film with its surreal exploration of male and female sexuality. It follows Italian actor and heartthrob Marcello Mastroianni as he wanders into a hotel populated by women holding a feminist conference. Sounds familiar? That was back in 1980 - nearly 40 years ago.

Prada Autumn/Winter 2017

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The infamous poster for that film - of the soberly dressed hero following a woman who is 90 per cent naked, except for her padded bra, tiny knickers and high heels - was not on the walls of the Prada enclave. But so many others were, from posters screaming "stag", through to a woman holding a gun over her groin, to "Demure Defiant" - created by AMO and Prada.

This current set from longterm collaborator Rem Koolhaas and his team was the most complex Miuccia has ever created, with new posters made for the show by Robert McGinnis, the legendary creator of publicity posters for the early James Bond movies and Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Posters were created in collaboration with legendary designer Robert McGinnis.

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Yet the poster that said it all was just by the door where the cheering audience rushed backstage. Printed on the poster were these words: "Fashion is about the everyday and the everyday is the political stage. For the woman show, we have decided to look at the role that women play in the shaping of modern society, their political participation and social achievement."